Surfer Girl Memories.

I decided to take down the other reblogged entry and reblog this one instead, given we have a three-day weekend, and the weather in Hawaii is GORGEOUS!


@postaday 253; #postaday2011.

When I first came to Hawaii back in 1981, I had no desire to learn how to surf. But when the pattern developed of my accompanying a boyfriend to the beach and getting parked there with the STUFF, I rebelled. What the heck? I love the ocean, I don’t like to just bake on a beach towel! So I learned how to surf.

My first surfboard was a long 9-foot Morey soft board, called “The Maxi Pad” because it was so absorbent. But it was also slow, so I was able to get up quickly and ride the little waves. It wasn’t much for maneuvering. Within three months I had a real surfboard, a little mini tank nose rider that mysteriously disappeared out of the Waikiki surf lockers. I’ve had several boards since, and I still have a really old board I got back in the ’80s…

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By lavagal

Hawaii Kai wife and mom. Melanoma Stage 3a Cancer survivor. English Language Arts teacher, English Learners Coordinator, and Paraprofessional Tutor. Super sub teacher. Dormant triathlete. Road cyclist and Masters swimmer. Gardener. Mrs. Fixit. Random dancer. Music Curator. A teenager trapped in an aging body. Did you know 60 is the new 40? It is.

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