I decided to take down the other reblogged entry and reblog this one instead, given we have a three-day weekend, and the weather in Hawaii is GORGEOUS!
@postaday 253; #postaday2011.
When I first came to Hawaii back in 1981, I had no desire to learn how to surf. But when the pattern developed of my accompanying a boyfriend to the beach and getting parked there with the STUFF, I rebelled. What the heck? I love the ocean, I don’t like to just bake on a beach towel! So I learned how to surf.
My first surfboard was a long 9-foot Morey soft board, called “The Maxi Pad” because it was so absorbent. But it was also slow, so I was able to get up quickly and ride the little waves. It wasn’t much for maneuvering. Within three months I had a real surfboard, a little mini tank nose rider that mysteriously disappeared out of the Waikiki surf lockers. I’ve had several boards since, and I still have a really old board I got back in the ’80s…
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Lavagal 
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