This article originally ran on HMSA’s Island Scene website. I am employed as a writer by Hawaii Medical Service Association. It’s a great place to work. (Yes. I drink the Kool-Ade, LOL!)
On Mother’s Day 2003, my husband gave me a 9-foot-2-inch surfboard. Bright and shiny with red hibiscus on the deck, that surfboard means so much to me. It marks a return to the sport I loved after taking time off for pregnancies.
Now that my girls are 9- and 8-years old, I’ve been able to go surfing more, but not nearly as much as I did when I was younger and single. My husband encourages me to get out in the lineup as much as possible because he knows it results in a happy wife. You should see me after a good surf session.
I began surfing in 1981, when I first came to Hawai‘i and was stationed at Hickam Air Force Base. When it was time to re-enlist, Continue reading “Getting out on the water”